Nestled in a railway arch in Battersea’s Circus West Village, Mother (the name refers to a sourdough culture, the ‘mother’ dough) is an Italian restaurant that was born in Copenhagen. Its Danish roots – the founding Mother is in Copenhagen – show through. This is a cosy, low-lit hygge haven.
Using dough created from a seawater sourdough starter, Mother’s trademark pizzas offer something new within London’s increasingly popular sourdough scene. Topped with high-quality ingredients, co-owners David Biffani and Nick Pound have created some unusual combinations including the courgette and smoked salmon Zuccone, as well as established favourites such as the salami-packed Salamina and porcini-topped Capricciosa.
As well as an extensive pizza offering, Mother’s menu offers antipasti plates ranging from wood-fired focaccia to homemade cheeses and a selection of bruschette. For dessert lovers, a small but indulgent list of dolci features the timeless tiramisu and a Nutella and ricotta-filled calzone.
With buffet-style brunches and a fine selection of wine and beers on offer too, David and Nick’s dynamic approach to delivering good food, matched with hygge hospitality, is a welcome addition to the city’s foodie catalogue.
By Sarah Tattersall, London editor