Pea Porridge in Bury St Edmunds is a cosy neighbourhood restaurant that was originally two cottages. Sustainability and nose-to-tail cooking play a big part here. So too does the “Bertha” indoor charcoal oven. It burns oak, birch, pine cones and beech to impart unique flavours and smokey aromas to many (but not all) of the dishes.
Pea Porridge really does deliver on flavour, serving up big, bold, gutsy dishes such as the rosé veal chop we enjoyed during our visit. Other options you might relish here include a 16oz free-range Blythburgh pork chop grilled in the Bertha and served with mash, ash-roasted leek, morcilla, king oyster mushrooms. Or how about mutton-neck tagine, couscous, pumpkin, pomegranate, baba ghanoush, yoghurt and coriander? Or maybe “Fegato alla Veneziana Bertha” – grilled calf’s liver, caramelised onions, polenta and grilled trevise?
The Tarte Tatin we had to finish was probably the best we’ve eaten this side of the Channel.
For opening times, check the Pea Porridge website.
Recommended by Philip Seaman, editor-at-large
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