Cobbled Micklegate is one of York’s loveliest streets. It starts at the historic entrance to the city and winds past Tudor and Georgian buildings, medieval churches, book shops and more.
Skosh was opened in spring 2016 by York native and creative chef Neil Bentinck. Everything from the cool grey walls to the bright yellow metro tiles and industrial lighting to the hand-thrown plates bearing the Skosh logo asserts progressive, modern dining.
The message gets stronger as you read the menu, which consists of snacks and small plates with choices to suit all tastes. I ordered three signature dishes: seaweed crackers with avocado and sesame; SFC (Skosh Fried Chicken) with smoked garlic, lemon thyme emulsion and fermented vegetable ‘slaw; and finally baked hake with dukkah, cauliflower and miso. My sweet was a tasty bowl of Victoria plums with star anise cream, umeshu and hazelnuts.
This is playful, contemporary cooking, blending British flavours with myriad global influences. Neil and team barely put a foot wrong with their technical skills, originality and flavour combinations.
The informal nature of Skosh is highly comfortable and the idea of returning to sit on the bar stools overlooking the kitchen to watch this talented team of chefs at work is an appealing one.
By Ann Fugler, Yorkshire editor