The Star Inn at Harome
Best Restaurant with Rooms in the White Rose Awards; one Michelin Star; a place in the Top 50 Gastro Pubs list; 19th in the National Restaurant Awards… The Star Inn at Harome near Helmsley has plenty of gongs to its name, and rightly so.
The old thatched inn dates back to the 14th century and certainly looks the part, with its quaint village setting and snug vintage interior of low beams, wood panelling and rough plastered walls. In the restaurant there are both ‘old’ and ‘new’ dining rooms, as well as seating outside on the terrace and grass area, plus a huge dining table in the kitchen garden.
Chef and owner Andrew Pern roots his seasonally changing menus firmly in North Yorkshire where he grew up, from Scarborough-caught fish with marsh samphire and brown shrimps to estate game and Yorkshire-sourced lamb, pork and beef, all enhanced by homemade pesto, sauces and butters from their own herbs and locally grown veg.
On our visit for a friend’s birthday celebration, the autumn menu was varied and full of exciting combinations and whilst we made our choices in the snug beside a roaring fire, Champagne and crackers with chutney were served.
My starter was Indian-spiced charred mackerel with roast cauliflower cream, sweet ‘n’ sour raisins, frozen and marinated cucumber. My main course was a plate of Sir Gary Verity’s award-winning lamb: Black Sheep ale-braised shoulder, ‘Humble Pie’ with peppered swede puree, roasted cutlet and charred garden leeks and wood sorrel. We were also presented with a bowl of fresh and crunchy vegetables. There were many oohs and ahhs throughout!
I just had enough room for a trio of homemade ices (pear and dark chocolate, damson ripple with sloe gin jelly and Harome honey yoghurt with fruit ‘n’ nut granola), and a pot of jasmine green leaf tea. We passed on the cheese course but marvelled at the Mousey Thompson oak trolley complete with one of my favourite ‘mice’.
The Star Inn deserves its many accolades – it’s a gleaming jewel in Yorkshire’s dining crown.
By Ann Fugler, Yorkshire editor