Review: Le Truc, Birmingham

Our closest neighbours and the cuisine that most Western cooking is founded on – nearly every Western chef owes their livelihood to the French way of organising a kitchen. But it’s actually very hard to get a decent French bistro meal in Birmingham short of Café Rouge. Le Truc comes to the rescue – located in the heart of Chinatown it’s a welcome escape from the high-street chains. The spacious interior will transport you emotionally to a cool Paris 6th arrondissement bistro, chandeliers dappling yellow light onto quirky murals of Serge Gainsbourg.

The food is unfussy and pure bistro. Onglet cooked oh-so-rare is my favourite steak in the whole city. French onion soup, chicken liver parfait, confit duck and crème brûlée – it’s all very familiar but shouldn’t breed contempt. When French classics like this are done with love and care they’re a joy forever. Besides the food there’s a great bar area that I love to pop into for drinks and a snack. They describe themselves as louche and alluring; I would agree wholeheartedly and add a little ‘oh-la-la’ too!