Restaurant review: Entropy, Leicester

Sited on the corner of a terraced street, Entropy may seem like just a neighbourhood gem.

But Tom and Cassandra Cockerill’s restaurant and bar, now celebrating its tenth year, is achieving nationwide acclaim.

We visited the Good Food Guide’s Midlands Restaurant of the Year in late 2010 and got stuck into some superior comfort food. Roasted vine tomato soup had marvellous depth of flavour, elegantly presented with a swirl of peppery olive oil. A big hunk of homemade sourdough bread filled it out nicely. In contrast to the finesse of the soup, deep-fried Old Spot cheeks were a gutsy treat. The cheeks offer little gobbets of rough and ready-looking but particularly tasty meat. They were well-matched here with a tart sauce gribiche, combining eggs, capers and herbs.

Mains impressed with simple treatment of high-quality ingredients. Northfield Farm sausages were beautifully herby, and the smooth mash, caramelised onions and pokey red wine gravy did them proud.

We knew a shepherd’s pie here would be out of the ordinary, and it was. Braised shoulder and breast of Southdown lamb are combined with sweetbreads to give a rare intensity of flavour. A bit more gravy wouldn’t have gone amiss though.

Chewy pastry disappointed in a pineapple tarte tatin, but other elements were superb. Caramelised fruit contrasted with a lime and chilli syrup, while coconut ice-cream and a shot of frothy pina colada finished things off.

Friendly, informal – a class act.

Entropy

Review by Tim Burke. Read Tim’s food blog here

Cuisine: Modern British/European.
Price per head: £30-£35 (three courses & drinks).
Kids welcome: Yes (“crayons & toys available”).
Dogs: No.
Customer car parking: On-road.
Times: Mon to Fri 11.30am–10pm; Sat 10.30am –10pm; Sun 10.30am–5pm.

Menu samples
STARTERS
Terrine of Gressingham duck, ham hock and foie gras, £6
Cropwell Bishop Stilton and leek souffle, £6.50
MAINS
Salmon fillet poached in olive oil & beetroot risotto, £12
Belly of English lop, spiced apple and prosciutto, £18
DESSERTS
Dark chocolate & rosemary mousse, £5.50
Carrot cake, raisin purée & jasmine tea ice cream, £5.50

Entropy’s owner and head chef Tom Cockerill with Amanda Lamb, being filmed for Street Market Chefs

Tim Burke
The author:

Leicestershire editor Tim lives in Leicester has been a journalist for 30 years, and over the last 12 years he has been restaurant critic for Metro, Great Food Club and the Leicester Mercury. He is also author of 2016 publication The Leicestershire and Rutland Cookbook.